Fashion Forward with Anna Jean Kos

Words by Liam Stretch. Images by Java Katzur and Kiana Kanoa.

Sustainability is at the forefront of the human consciousness at the moment, and this reaches into the world of fashion. Anna Jean Kos, a Kiwi designer, has a growing reputation as a player with her eyes set on the planet and making fabulous garments. Liam Stretch had a chat with her.

Anna is a New Zealand designer and the owner of the ethical fashion label Anna Jean Kos (AJK for short). Growing up in Wellington, she started the brand in Oahu, Hawaii. Anna had a self-starting approach to fashion and is largely self-taught, via a lot of ‘trial and error’ and YouTube tutorials –creating unique pieces; her clothing is relaxed, comfy, sustainable, and inclusive.

“I’m very interested in textiles and the construction of clothing, how it falls and fits individuals, as well as where it comes from and whose labour went into it. The more I started sharing my own creations, the more people around me became interested, and it grew organically from there.

I’m known for my linen loungewear and my made to order (quite cheeky) bikinis.”

Making her first bikini in November 2020 while in one of Aotearoa’s managed isolation hotels, a few months later, she launched her first swimwear collection using deadstock fabrics.  

“Sustainability is really important to me as an individual and as a brand. Brands tend to overestimate how much fabric they need, and the excess is sent to landfills or to be incinerated. I am able to take these offcuts and give them a second life. I prefer this over alternatives because I want to use what’s already out there as opposed to generating more fashion-related waste.”

Her most recent collection is made from linen; she chose it for a number of reasons, including, “the impact on the environment is lower than cotton as it’s grown using less water and pesticides, it comes from a flax plant, so it’ll break down in the future (as opposed to synthetics and the microplastics associated). It’s also just a lot more durable and healthier to wear. It softens over time and can be worn over and over again”.

Producing her garments in batches and making them to order ensures that she only creates what is needed and little waste.

“Currently, nearly every item is made to order. The process is slower, but it has so many benefits. I’m reducing waste while also being able to meet the different needs of my customers. I see the smallest changes, such as thicker straps, ties at the front or fuller coverage, make a big difference to how someone feels in what they’re wearing, and it’s really fulfilling to be able to provide this. I encourage my customers to message me about their sizing or shape so that I am producing pieces that fit well and that will be worn over and over again.”

Currently a one-person team, Anna does everything from designing through to making and marketing for the brand.

“I do have some incredibly talented friends who take photos for me, as well as too many self-timer pics. I am hoping to grow a small team eventually, but I need to get my ‘business’ organised before I do this. It’s a bit of a challenge turning something I do creatively and passionately into my livelihood, so we’re still figuring that stuff out.”

Her passion for ethical fashion stems from what she currently sees in the fashion world. Asked how she felt about the current environment, she responded, “not great, honestly. I feel a bit sick if I think about it for too long. I see a lot of people doing innovative and inspiring things with fashion, uplifting communities and meeting the standards for what it means to be an ethical business or social enterprise. But I see exploitation, mass production, greenwashing and inauthenticity on a much larger scale. The issues we are facing are structural, and it’s hard to feel powerful against corporations”.

Despite these feelings, Anna thinks that Kiwis are going in the right direction but admits it is a global struggle.

“I hope so. I think New Zealanders, in general, are more aware and conscious about making sustainable choices, and we have some really cool brands and thrift stores to turn to for this. I think one of the biggest challenges we are facing with the fashion industry is that it is a global problem, and we don’t see the devastating everyday effects it is having on people and the environment. Like many social issues [that] we’re facing today, creating a more sustainable and inclusive fashion industry is possible. The resources and innovation exist, and there are so many great things being done. However, huge structural and corporate shifts need to be made in order to get to a place where sustainable fashion is inclusive, accessible to all and the new ‘norm’.”

Adding to her sense of hope is the positive reception her brand has received, leaving her taken-a-back. 

“[It’s been] Overwhelming, honestly. I really didn’t expect people to be so interested and supportive about what I was doing. I feel really grateful to be surrounded by people (virtually and in real life) who want to see the process and support me.   

 For now, her popularity is firmly rooted in the States, but she is looking to cater some products toward the New Zealand style.

“My market is mostly in Hawaii and mainland America. I have a lot of interest and support from New Zealanders, but I don’t think the style matches the weather, especially as we’re going into winter. I’m working on a few items for the future that hopefully my New Zealand people will love!”